Dinner At Marco Pierre White's Rudloe Arms Hotel in Corsham
Published On Thursday 9 Jan 2025 by Sticky Beak
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Ah, yes; dinner. As is our habit, we had a quick squizz at TA to see what other customers at Rudloe had to say, and there were quite a few remarks that the staff were snooty/aloof/rude etc; this wasn’t our experience at all. The young lady who greeted us in the Garden Room couldn’t have been any more pleasant, even moving us to another, cooler table [away from the radiator] when asked; gotta love Menopausal flushes!
Water was brought over for the table straight away, with ice appearing soon after to cool me down. Many folks have bemoaned the prices of extras, but we each had a large glass of the house wine (£10) and, let’s face it, you’re not going to be served a shabby one at MPW’s place, are you? Yes, you could splash out daft money on a swanky bottle (and why not, if that’s what floats your boat?), but you really don’t need to. Likewise, you don’t need to indulge in extra side dishes either – though at a fiver a pop they’re not going to bankrupt you and you get a decent portion for your dosh.
Like many establishments, the dinner menu was a set, three-course offering. To start, I had the Salad of Beetroot and Goat Curd with Walnuts, Lemon and Extra Virgin Olive Oil; His Nibs went for the Duck Liver Pâte with Black Pepper en Gelee Madeira, served with Melba Toasts. The presentation was wonderful; not a thing was out of place, and every element was arranged for maximum appeal.
I got a generous amount of the Goat Curd and a half of a large Beetroot; the contrast between the jewel tone of the vegetable and the ethereally pale Curd was superb, as were the flavours of both. Complimented by sharp citrus hints and the fruitiness of the Olive oil, the musky curd, earthy Beetroot and crunchy Walnuts ensured that my palate was captivated – despite it being a [seemingly] simple dish.
The Man Bird was pleasantly surprised to see that his Chicken Liver Pate was in its own oval-shaped ‘house’…and that it was so large a portion. Intense flavour flooded his mouth: for someone who doesn’t like offal, he does a damn fine job of polishing off Liver Pates! The wickedly smooth texture of the pate was paired beautifully with crunchy Melba Toasts, and Black Peppers’ heat whispered at the periphery of his palate. Again, a very simple starter, but one that delivered.
Our lovely server had checked we were enjoying our starters and thoughtfully refreshed our water for me; I’d been chugging it like one-o to keep me cool! She was working solo that evening, keeping up with orders in the bar and also the other diners in the Garden Room. I tell you what, she did everything with a smile and never seemed to be rushing: now that’s some serious hospitality skill.
Unusually, we’d both gone for the same main course: Ragu of dry-aged Aberdeen Angus Bolognese, Potato Gnocchi and Aged Parmesan. I had been tempted, though, by the fillet of Whitby Cod Pane a l’Anglaise with Tartare Sauce and Lemon. If you want a hearty winter dish, then look no further than the Bolognese – it was magnificent! Brimming with rich tastes and comfortingly robust, this had us both grinning in delight. Equally delicious were the sides we’d ordered: Box Tree’s Braised Red Cabbage and Gratin of Creamy, Cheesy Potatoes; yes, I know we’d already got Potato Gnocchi, but you all know what a spudaholic The Man is! I just adore Red Cabbage, especially when it’s braised gently to soften and concentrate its sugars, and this was marvellous. More restrained in my response to potato, I was surprised by how much I savoured the Gratin; it was sublime, and exactly as stated. Needless to say, His Nibs was effusive in his praise of it.
Clearly, Mr White subconsciously stirs the inner rebel in his guests; I couldn’t tell you the last time I had Cheese to finish my meal when dining out, but found myself ordering the Clawson’s Shropshire Blue with Fig Chutney and Crackers. Cheese is one of my passions in life, but I never have it out as it doesn’t showcase a Chef’s skill (unless they’re a master cheese-maker); I’m glad I made an exception here though – I thoroughly enjoyed it.
The Man Bird opted for Gavroche’s Chocolate Mousse, named after Michel Roux Jr.’s London restaurant, Le Gavroche (where the recipe was created for), which sadly closed in January 2024. Wickedly rich and luxuriant, this will light up anybody’s cerebral pleasure centre like Blackpool’s three piers!! Crème Chantilly was a bit more extravagance that wasn’t really needed, but was certainly relished.
After retiring to our room, we both said that this was a masterclass in food being maximally flavoursome without a novel-worthy list of ingredients. Proof that all you need is quality ingredients, talent and passion to produce soul-soothing food. Compliments to Chef and his team. Hot wings happily awarded here.
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