Dinner At The Orangery At St Elphin's Park, Darley Dale
Published On Sunday 1 Dec 2024 by Sticky Beak
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The Man Bird and I always love being invited back to a venue that we’ve previously reviewed; whether it’s for a change in Chef, owner, a refurbishment, change in menu, or just because we haven’t been for a while. The Orangery at St. Elphin’s Park (an Audley property) is a venue that we’ve had the pleasure of visiting several times over the span of the blog, so we were very happy to be invited back by the Senior General Manager, Wilma, on this occasion.
As marvellous as the setting is, the weather was its polar opposite - literally, it felt, in the chill of the wind and the lying snow from previous days! Knowing our way around, we passed the beautifully resplendent Christmas Tree in reception and went through the bistro area where a couple of the serving team were engaging with owners. With a wide smile, one of them escorted us through to our table which was by the window. It was from here that we could really appreciate the changes to the décor. Although the colour palate had remained the same (as well as the rather spectacular pendant lights), the circular banquettes had been replaced by pale grey, rectangular sofa-type seating, with white urns replacing the lost height of the banquette arms.
Table water was brought out straight away and, with two glasses of a marvellously cheeky Sauvignon Blanc ordered and being sipped at, we sank back into the squishy cushions on our high-back chairs to give the menu some consideration. Chef clearly knows his stuff, as there were several tables of owners dining alongside us, and the food being taken to those tables looked super.
His Nibs had chosen the Game and Prune Terrine (£8.25) for his starter, and I had gone for the Smoked Mackerel Rillette, (also £8.25). It wasn’t long before two beautifully presented dishes were being placed in front of us and we tucked in. The Man Birds’ Terrine had a great chunkiness to its texture, which not only gave the morsel a lovely chew time in the mouth, it meant that the layers and different colours could be discerned. Taste-wise, this was delightful; the earthy game combined with the sweeter Prune, and the Redcurrants in the Cumberland Sauce added an extra pop of fruitiness. Crisped slices of Sourdough made the perfect vessel on which to dollop the terrine, the crunch from them contrasting with the rich Terrine.
My Rillette had a wonderful depth to it from the smoked Mackerel, and Chef had kept it pleasingly coarse, which complimented the texture of the piquant Apple and Celeriac remoulade. My palate particularly appreciated the tang and warmth of Mustard in the remoulade, and it partnered the strong fish brilliantly. I had the same small pieces of sourdough on my plate as His Nibs, and they soon got loaded up with the potted fish.
Check-backs were done to ensure that we were happy with our food, and the lovely lady carried back a pair of squeaky-clean plates to the kitchen. We were asked if we needed fresh napkins before the mains arrived, but we were fine with the ones we had: nice to be asked, though.
In the colder months, I think we all crave comfort food a little, don’t we? The Man Bird couldn’t resist the lure of Coq Au Vin with Garlic Mash and Honey-roast Carrots (£18), and I couldn’t fault him – it is a classic, after all! I was in one of those ‘flip-flop’ moods and vacillated between the pan-roast Hake (£22) and the roasted Butternut Squash and Sage Risotto (£12.50). Now, there’s no denying that the Carb content of the Risotto fitted the comfort bill, but I fancied the sound of the Potato Cake and White Wine Sauce in the Hake dish more.
Chef doesn’t skimp on his portions, and my Hake fillet was a really good size. I would’ve liked the skin to be a bit crispier, but couldn’t fault the firm flesh at all – it was gloriously moist and juicy, with a wonderful sweetness to it. The Potato Cake was magnificent; perfectly seasoned and with a lovely pop of texture from the Kale in it. Leeks had been sliced obliquely, showcasing their layers excellently, and they had been charred to intensify their sugars and add a smoky note. I was very happy with my choice; would The Man be equally happy with his?
In short, His Maj was extremely happy with his Coq Au Vin. There was no mistaking the fact that Red Wine was used in this dish – Chef had been liberal with the glugs of alcohol in the sauce! The wonderfully thick sauce bathed the quarter Chicken, and this cocoon had ensured that the poultry remained soft and juicy throughout cooking. French cooking often includes Alliums: Onions, Leeks or Garlic, and the Garlic in the mash was at a perfect level so as to bathe the palate gently, rather than overwhelm the Potato. Thickly sliced Mushrooms were earthy and rich, balanced beautifully with the sweetness of the Honey-roast Carrots.
Our tummies were certainly full by this point but, as we glanced at the dessert menu, our gluttony took hold and we ordered Saffron-poached Pear with Granola and Vanilla Ice Cream (£7.50), and Pavlova with Chantilly Cream and Black Cherry Compote (£7.50).
A careful arrangement was placed gently in front of His Nibs, the foundation of which was a Meringue nest. Holding court in the centre of the dish, the swirled, pale meringue was guarded by rivers of dramatic, jewel-toned Compote; the contrast was not lost on the senses, and The Man took a moment to enjoy the sight. I, however, had no such decorum and nabbed one of the whole Black Cherries! A beguiling intensity flooded my tongue as the Cherry released its juice, making me smile happily. The soft compote, fruit, and sweet Chantilly Cream contrasted marvellously with the crunchy Meringue. This was undoubtedly a sweet dessert, but a jolly nice one it was.
My choice of dessert didn’t sound complicated, but let me tell you that the layers of flavour and the textures made it intricate and magical. Ripe pears are themselves aromatic (and gorgeously soft and grainy in the mouth), but add in Saffron - King of Spices – with its earthy/sweet/floral/honeyed character, and the destination was next-level scrumminess! The rounded, mellow flavour of Oat in the Granola caressed the dessert, bringing the whole together stylishly. The final touch was the Vanilla Ice Cream: its coolness was a welcome addition to the sensorial impact of the dish, and just added that little extra flourish.
We’d had a superb evening in The Orangery at St. Elphin’s Park; it may have been a while since our last visit, but the standard has remained as high as ever. Hot Wings happily given here again. You don’t have to reside on the St. Elphin’s site to access the Bistro or The Orangery restaurant, and there’s always something delicious to savour from lunchtime onwards. Ring 01629 258055 to book a table, or visit www.audleyrestaurants.co.uk/the-orangery-darley-dale to view menus, opening times and book online.
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