Sunday Lunch At Seven Restaurant & Cafe Bar, Derby
Published On Sunday 15 Sep 2024 by Sticky Beak
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At the moment we’re having to look around for restaurants that have access for wheelchair users, and The Man is on it like a bloodhound! On this occasion it was a last-minute decision to go out for Sunday lunch; the weather forecast was such that any work in an unsheltered garden was impossible, so we thought “stuff it, let’s go out!”.
Mummy Bird is always up for a pootle out, and Seven in Derby is such a beautiful venue that we thought it would be just the ticket. His Nibs parked the jalopy in the disabled spot at the front of Seven and we wheeled Mummy into the spacious reception/bar/casual dining area. We were greeted very warmly and shown to our table on the lower level, and then the lovely hostess moved two chairs out of the way so that Mummy could be seated comfortably.
A few moments later our server for the day, Gabby, came up and took our drinks order and then went to fetch some water for the table for us. One of the things The Man and I loved about Seven on our last visit was the flexibility the menu affords diners: there are appetisers and starters if you fancy a light bite with a drink after work, salads and sandwiches for lighter options, and then roasts, large plates and grill sections if you are proper hungry. We made a group decision to skip starters and see how we felt about pudding when the time came.
I opted for the Summer Salad (£12.50) with a Chicken Breast added (£2.50 extra), Mummy went for the Chicken Milanese (£15.50) and The Man chose the Dry-aged Derbyshire Beef Roast (£18.50). Gabby double checked our order before going off to place it in the kitchen; she was so friendly, we’d all fallen a little bit in love with her! Whilst we waited for our meals, I took in the décor a bit more.
Seven manages to be modern, calming and cosy all at the same time; no easy feat for a large, open-plan space. Nature clearly provides the inspo, as a muted colour palate of greys and greens is the mainstay, complimented by plenty of faux foliage, limed wood and tarnished metal. Fairy lights and grey modern pendant lights above the tables give a subtle glow around the venue. Plenty of the serving team were going past our table with some really good-looking plates of food, and we all gazed wistfully at the morsels passing by us!
Thankfully, our food wasn’t too long in arriving and we all eagerly tucked into the beautifully presented dishes. Mummy had asked if it would be possible for her Chicken to be cut up (she can currently only use one hand) and Chef had kindly obliged which made life a lot easier for us all. The crumb on the breast fillet was exquisite; brilliantly crisp and not at all greasy, allowing the gentle taste of the poultry to shine through. On top of the golden-crumbed chicken was a perfectly fried egg, with a nicely unctuous yolk whose flavour was beautifully rich. In a separate little pot was a creamy, indulgent Truffle sauce, and this proved to be utterly irresistible – literally everything got dunked into it: skin-on Fries, the Chicken, the egg…and even the last bits of Rocket salad when they got discovered at the end of Mummy’s meal!
In my bowl was a summer symphony of colourful Heritage Tomatoes, Broad Beans, sliced Avocado, super-crunchy Sourdough Croutons, thinly sliced Shallot rings, Watercress, Mint and Parsley. Taking centre stage was a pale sphere of Burrata and the added Grilled Chicken breast, artfully drizzled with the same Lemon dressing that zhuzhed up the salad. If summer could be captured by food, this would be the dish to do it – clean, bright flavours swirled with creamy ones, and crunch parried with softness to provide a total sensorial delight.
The Man Birds’ Beef was served pink - exactly the way it should be, in our opinion – and needed next-to-no pressure to cut into the slices. Melting in his mouth, His Nibs told us that it had a marvellous flavour as well; always a bonus when something tastes as good as it looks. The Yorkie was massive, with a gorgeously crisp outer and softer inner; flavour-wise, the batter was perfect, too. I happened to be looking over at His Nibs’ plate when he cut into one of the large roast potatoes and underneath the golden, crunchy outer, was a beautiful example of fluffy spud that [apparently] had a gentle nutty hint in the mouth. Green Cabbage, Broccoli florets and a trio of whole, roasted Carrots had been shyly hiding underneath the Yorkie, but when The Man discovered them and tucked in, they revealed their still-crunchy character. I may not have been offered a bite of the roasties, but I was allowed to pinch a bit of the Cauliflower Cheese (which came in a separate bowl) and, oh my days, this minx was scrummy! The vegetable was still nice and firm so it had retained its shape and the sauce was marvellously cheesy and punchy, with a gorgeous creamy texture that clung to the insides of your cheeks – perfect. I should just give the gravy a mention as well; pleasingly glossy from the meat juices, this was rich in flavour and gently seasoned to compliment the meal.
Gabby had been to check that we had been enjoying our meals, and made sure that we were ok for refreshment; she replaced our empty carafe of table water for another, and then came back to clear away our plates. With a smile that said she already knew our answer, Gabby asked if we’d like to see the dessert menu…of course we would!
I had been tempted by the Eton Mess, before changing my mind and going for the Caramelised Lemon Tart with Blackcurrant Sorbet (£6.95). Mummy fancied the Pecan and Treacle Tart with Pistachio Ice Cream (£6.95), and The Man decided to have the Biscoff White Chocolate Cheesecake (£7.50). As with our mains, the presentation was sublime, and we all took a moment to appreciate their beauty before ‘upping spoons’ and devouring them.
Both Mummy and I had got a generous slice of dessert; hers dark and mysterious, mine bright and flirty. The Pecans had been finely chopped and mixed in with a decadently rich treacle, making it a gently textural tart. Warmth made the filling super-sticky and it lingered nicely on Mummy’s’ tongue, and the cool of the Ice Cream contrasted well from a sensory viewpoint. You could see flecks of pastel green Pistachio in the pale Ice Cream, and its flavour was certainly discernible on the palate.
My Caramelised tart had a burnt sugar crust that audibly cracked with the smack of my spoon, making me grin with joy. There was no mistaking the zingy citrus content; my face scrunched up as its sharpness hit my tongue, in that happy grimace – after all, you don’t want an insipid Lemon Tart, do you?!! Equally enthusiastic in the sharp stakes was the colourful Blackcurrant Sorbet; this also had me squealing at its berry tartness, especially when I bit into an actual Blackcurrant! The pastry base was delightfully buttery and rich, with no soggy bottom in sight. Mummy and I were jolly happy with our dessert choices, props to Chef.
His Nibs had an individual round of cheesecake topped with a perfect sphere of thick Cream, decorated with ribbons of Biscoff spread. In keeping with its name, the base was made of crushed Biscoff biscuits and the unmistakeable caramelly, cinnamony notes hit his palate. Combined with the silky White Chocolate element of this dessert, the Biscoff was mesmerising; having had a spoonful, I would definitely go for this on our next visit to Seven!
Hot Wings very happily given to this fantastic Derby restaurant; we are already planning to go back for a midweek dinner. To book a table ring 01332 332277 or visit www.sevenrestaurant.co.uk and hit the book button. Seven is open seven days a week: Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat 9am-11pm, and Sun 9am-5pm.
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