#NC500 Day 3 - From Skye To Inverness Via Loch Ness
Published On Saturday 8 Jul 2023 by Sticky Beak
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Day 3 started out a bit shaky; neither of us is used to a soft mattress, so we didn’t have the best nights’ kip at The Stein Inn. However, things soon took a sharp up-turn when we went down for breakfast, which the venue kindly agreed to do a little earlier than usual for us so that we could set off briskly.
The restaurant was transformed into a feasting room, laden with fresh fruit, yoghurts, cereals galore! Chef came through to offer Tea or Coffee and enquire what we fancied to eat; I ordered tea and Porridge, His Nibs asked for fruit tea and Porridge followed by Scrambled Eggs on Toast (more of that shortly!).
Whilst Chef went to make our porridge, I busied myself with cutting up a Peach, an Apple and a Kiwi into cubes, ready to pop into the bowl with my Porridge. The Man Bird fetched us some Orange Juice and cut a Banana into slices to have with his Porridge. Now, call me daft, but usually when you have porridge it’s about halfway up a small breakfast bowl isn’t it, so that’s what we were expecting. Assumption is the mother of all ding-dongs, and this occasion was no different; Chef came through with the deepest, hugest bowls I’ve ever seen and they were full to the brim with steaming hot Oats! I call them bowls, but buckets are more apt a description, really!
Having clapped eyes on his bowl, The Man asked Chef not to make him any Scrambled Eggs after all, which then led to him asking if we wanted any toast or just a few fried bits – clearly, this gent loves to feed folks! To go with the Porridge, Chef brought out a bowl of dark Brown Sugar (though he did say that there was Honey, too), so we spooned some over and watched it as it turned from granular to liquid pools on the grains’ hot surface.
We both put our fruit in and mixed everything together, then tucked in with gusto. It may not be the most exciting breakfast choice to some, but to us it was superb, and our tummies filled up rapidly. This dish was going to keep us pumped with energy until well into the afternoon; just as well as we’d got another packed day to get through! Chef kept checking that we were ok, and if we were sure that we didn’t want toast or more teas – what a total superstar.
With bursting tummies, we hit the road; our first stop was the Fairy Glen at Uig, still on Skye. What a stunning place!! There’s a decent sized car park (pay and display), but the toilets are a 2-mile drive away – just in case you’re planning to visit. The lush green mounds are marked with curious trails on them; small, and perfect for Sidhe. I took a small offering for the Faerie-folk; they are sensitive souls and not pleased when taken for granted, so I wanted to stay in their good books! There’s a circle of small stones that is surrounded by Ferns, so I found a sheltered flat rock and popped the food (fresh fruit) on there for them. As we walked around and climbed some of the bigger mounds, a Dragonfly followed us: a Faerie in disguise? You decide.
Bidding farewell to the Fairy Glen and its inhabitants, it was time to drive back on to the mainland and head to the Falls of Foyers. The falls are usually cascading down the rocks, but on this particular day they were clearly not feeling it and were more like the Trickles of Foyers! Predicted heavy rain was forecast later in the day, so I’m sure normal gushing service will resume shortly.
The walk back up is as steep as when you descend (obvs!), but our deflated feelings made it feel 10 times more work, so we popped into the Waterfall Cafe for a Chocolate Milkshake (with cream and marshmallows to cheer me up), a Rhubarb Soda and pieces of White Chocolate and Cranberry Flapjack. Mood restored, we went back to the jalopy and set off for Urquhart Castle.
We made the rookiest of rookie errors in not booking our tickets to get entry to the castle, and when we pulled up, the attendants were turning people away as all the tickets had been sold! What a pair of plonkers we are! Rather than moping, we just headed over to the recently re-opened Loch Ness Visitor Centre – and what a fab, friendly bunch they are.
David Tennant voices the narrative of the Great Glen and the mystery of ‘Nessie’ aka The Loch Ness Monster; she might not have made an appearance for me, but I’m still a fan #IBelieveInNessie.
After another busy day, we were pleased when we pulled up at Ornum House in Beauly, our accommodation for the night. This is a wonderful B&B; our host greeted us warmly as we stepped out of the car, never mind walking over the threshold! The room at Inverardran House had been big, but this was even bigger...with a super-king bed at its heart, and a sitting area at the window. I tested the mattress: super-comfy and pleasingly firm (but not rock-hard!). We popped our water bottles in the mini fridge whilst we stuck the kettle on for a brew: coffee, teas and hot choc were all on the hostess tray, as well as slices of cake that were homemade. I planned to make use of the shower cap and hygiene set (cotton buds for ears, mini nail file and cotton wool pads) to freshen up, and to use the makeup removal wipes before going to bed.
After a quick change (and handing in our completed breakfast forms), it was time to head back into Beauly itself for dinner at The Priory Hotel. This is a very popular venue – the restaurant was already pretty full, so book ahead to guarantee a table! I loved the fact that there are canvasses of photos taken by local business ‘Highland Images Landscape Photography’ on the walls, and they are available to purchase if one takes your fancy.
Our server got drinks sorted quick-sharp and we ordered Isle of Lewis Mussels to start (off the specials board (£7.95 starter, £14.95 as a main course) and Haggis Pakora (£7.95, served with mixed leaves and a Glayva & Mustard dip). For mains we chose the Cajun Salmon Fillet on a bed of Sundried Tomato and Spring Onion Risotto (£19.95) and Pork Belly with Mash and Red Cabbage, and Red Wine Jus (£18.50).
The Mussels were beautifully meaty and a good size, but I thought that Chef had forgotten about the White Wine, Garlic and Cream Sauce they came with; he hadn’t, it’s just that there wasn’t an awful lot of it at all! This was a shame because it was a wonderfully balanced, flavoursome liquor. His Nibs fared better with his quartet of Pakoras; they were rich and deep in flavour, with a crunchy outer, and the dip that partnered them was brilliantly punchy.
Our server checked we were happy with our starters, and was pleased to take a pair of empty plates back to the kitchen. It wasn’t long before she brought out our mains, and they were piping hot with plumes of steam billowing from each plate! My Salmon fillet was a good size and had a spicy Cajun crust on one side that got my taste buds swinging with joy. The Risotto rice was a little too soft to be able to be called perfect, but it was gorgeously creamy and nutty. Clean notes of Spring Onion were matched by intensely sweet Sundried Tomato pieces, and this was a very filling meal choice.
The Man Bird wasn’t going to go hungry either; the three slices of juicy Belly Pork were thick and on the generous side, size-wise! These meaty morsels laid on top of a deep bed of impossibly smooth, creamy mash, and His Nibs sighed happily with every mouthful. Providing a welcome injection of texture was the chunkily cut Red Cabbage that retained a lovely amount of bite; yet again, a good choice of dish!
Putting my picky, tourist hat on, I would say that whilst the service was undoubtedly prompt, it could’ve done with being a bit friendlier and the prices are slightly above what you’d usually pay. However, it is a Hotel and it’s in a touristy spot, so that’s what you’d expect, I guess. Not the worst dining experience we’ve ever had, but not the best, either.
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